Why I Will Root for the Saints
As a national correspondent for the Los Angeles Times back in the day, I spent a disproportionate amount of time eating and drinking my way through New Orleans. It was not all frivolity. In this 1996 piece, “Nobody Comes to Galatoire’s Only for the Food,” you can see how lunch becomes theater and ritual and myth—and ultimately dinner.
Photo: Bobak Ha’Eri